Rag quilts - how I completed my first one, four years later

Four years ago, I decided I'd make my then, soon-to-be born niece, a rag quilt from all of the scraps of my childhood. I did not have a sewing machine at a time so, I cut up all of the squares for the front, the insert cushion, and the fleece backing. I pinned each together, laid them out in a pattern I liked, and then, bagged them in plastic bags by row.

I read a tutorial at the time that said to sew an 'X' through each set of squares - the rag, the padding, and the backing. I made it through half a row and then, did not touch it for another four years. I managed to move the bags through three moves and a new sewing machine.

But, this year, I decided to finish the projects I had started. The first project - my rag quilt.

In opening the bags, I realized several things:

1. I made the squares too small
2. I cut the padding to large
3. I should not have used felt for a backing if I wanted it to "rag up"

Despite these realizations, I decided to go ahead with the project, knowing what to do differently in the future.

I cut my squares 3 inches by 3 inches. In most tutorials I've read, they cut them at least 6 inches by 6 inches. This leaves you ample room for mistakes and it allows you less square sewing. I also cut my padding the the same width and length as the rags and the backing. Don't do this. Cut your padding squares so they are about an inch shorter on both the width and the length. If you don't, they will be part of the fray and it's not as clean that way. I also used a real soft black felt for the back. While this feels nice, it misses the rag quilt feel. So, if you're wanting the traditional look, use flannel or a cotton fabric.

Since I found a variety of tutorials written by master "sewers," I thought I'd write one from the perspective of a first-time sewer and a first-time rag quilt maker.

So, how do you start?

1. Pick out some large pieces of fabric - old shirts, family scraps, etc. - that you can cut into squares.
2. Buy quilt backing.
3. Pick out some large pieces of fabric that you can use as backing. Remember - if you use fleece, it will not fray, so pick a fabric that will fray. It can all be one solid color (I chose black) or they can be multiple colors. 

Once you have picked out your fabric, it's time to do some cutting. Decide upon the size of your quilt. I scoped Pinterest for sizing charts. I also discovered that it's best to keep each square about 6 inches by 6 inches. 

I am not a perfectionist when it comes to sewing so I pinned the three layers together - rag on top, followed by batting, and then the backing. I realized later that I had to cut the fabric more even so I cut it without a ruler. Not best practice, but with the backing, all stuck together so it cut evenly. Be sure you have a quality pair of sewing scissors on hand.

Next, it's time to sew an X through the four corners of the three-layer square. I've read various accounts on how to do this, but decided to sew it all the way through the end. Since mine layers were very thick, I had some problems with the sewing machine. This is another reason to really consider your layers. Fleece proved to be a little too thick. However, I made it work. Also, check the quality of thread. I bought thread that said it was for machine embroidery, but it got tangled repeatedly in the bobbin. In fact, it got so tangled, it doubled or tripled the time it would take to work on this quilt. Thread is very important.

Repeat sewing the Xs for all squares. After I sewed a row of squares, I laid them on a bed in the order I wanted them to appear. You can choose to have a definite pattern or scatter them. I scattered them. Continue laying them row-by-row on a flat surface in an undisturbed area until you have all of the rows. Then, grab one row at a time (I stacked each square on top of the other in the same order so I could sew them together more easily).

It's time to sew together the rows. Grab your furthest square to the left and the square to its right. Keep the left square face up and place the right square on its back, underneath of the left square. Then, sew along the right edge - top to bottom. I used about a 1/2 inch allowance, but that is up to you. Whatever you choose, be sure to use the same allowance throughout your quilt.

When you have sewed the first two squares together, you will continue to sew the remaining squares together in that row. After you have finished sewing the row together, place the completed row back with the others. Then, grab the next row and repeat until you have reached the end of your rows. Your squares will begin to look like this.

Once you have sewn together all of the squares, it's time to sew the rows together. Grab the first two rows and pin them together. It's very important to line square for square. I discovered that some of my squares were not the same size (due to my lack of precision) so, I still pinned them as if they were and scrunched the larger ones to fit the smaller ones. Just as you placed the top square over the flipped second square, you'll do the same with the rows. Place the top row right-side up and the second row upside down (back to back) and sew along the bottom/right edge. Before you start sewing, open up the the flaps so they are pinned down as you sew. You want to sew over the flattened flaps.

Your masterpiece will start to look more finished at this point and, luckily, you are almost done!

Now, for the final steps! It's time to sew around the border of the quilt. Use the same allowance as you did for the other sections. I did 1/2 inches for each other piece so I left 1/2 inch allowance around the rest of the quilt.

Once you are done sewing your border, it's time to cut! Use a good pair of sewing scissors and cut every flap you can find. My hand was sore after this, but it was worth it. The smaller the distance between your cuts, the more the fray at the end. Sadly, since I used fleece, mine did not really fray. Though, it still has a nice effect.

Then, it's time to wash and dry your quilt. This will give it that rag look with frayed edges. I washed the quilt on a gentle cycle with no fabric softener and only a little bit of detergent. I also washed it with three towels. this will ensure the towels absorb the frays and threads that are made. After the wash cycle, I put it in the dryer with the same towels to further absorb the threads.

And, now for your finished product.

I'm excited to make many more now that I know to not use fleece and to cut larger squares and...use better thread!

You can check out some of my other products at fenneworks.com. Enjoy!

Crafting crates: Part 1 - the Doodle Crate

A year ago, my boyfriend showed me this thing called a "loot crate." It was love at first sight. The thought of receiving monthly kits to keep you energized is brilliant. The only thing that can be a catch for some (especially teacher budgets like mine) is the price tag. And, while it is not steep, it does have a cost. So, for that reason, I withheld making any purchases.

However, recently, my boyfriend shared a YouTube series with me called "Smarter Everyday." As an educator, I enjoy the quick segments, humor, and intellectual growth. At the end of the episode, the show's creator featured Kiwi Crate. Immediately, my attention was perked. Another crate? Say what? And, better yet, if you clicked on his link, you would receive a trial month for free (while plus $4.95 shipping & handling). As an aside, when I signed up for a trial, it did get my credit card info, so I will have to remember to cancel if I can't afford or if I don't like. Though I understand the business of it, it is a drawback for some. After the first month, it is $19.95 a month for each crate. Though, if you go to Kiwi Crate, you can get it for $16.95 a month if you pay upfront. In the end, the price is roughly the same.

There are four crates to choose from - koala, kiwi, doodle, and tinker. Koala and kiwi are for younger children, but the doodle and tinker crates are for "children" ages 9 and up. So, I signed us up for one of each - a tinker and a doodle.

(Example crates you can get with a Doodle Crate subscription)

Now, I'm perfectly capable of searching Pinterest and starting these ideas on my own (and as any of my close friends can tell you, I do). However, the simplicity and consistency of the crates have huge appeal. Imagine making your own in your classroom - having a surprise monthly crate to challenge your creativity.

So, I signed up for both the doodle and tinker crates. When you love making as much as I do, it's hard to choose. Then, I began the waiting process. When you first subscribe, the crate ships within approximately 3 business days of your purchase. Afterwards, your crate will arrive mid-month for every following month. Since you are required to create an account, you can login to your account at anytime to view the status of your order. I also discovered it's a way of finding the specific type of crate you'll be receiving. For instance, it shows that I'll be getting the drawbot for my Tinker Crate. And, it was correct!

_________________

Approximately one week after I signed up for my creates, they arrived on my front porch!

When I first had the revelation to blog about my crates, I didn't account for the time to create. Foolish me! So, this is part one of two on the kits. The focus: the Doodle Crate.

Since the Doodle Crate arrived two days before my Tinker Crate, it was a natural choice to start work on the Doodle Crate.

I opened my box and discovered a pamphlet on what I would be making and how I could make it. I also found carefully packaged items to use in my creation process. And, I discovered the box itself works as an awesome canvas for creating.

This month's focus is on crafting your own pencils and pencil holders. It came fully stocked with paint, two types of paint brushes, two packages of paper clay, gloss finish, glue, paper for pencils, and colored led. Oh, and a tutorial book!

Another look at all of the goodies!

Next up - creating. I decided to make the pencils first since I knew I'd get messy with the clay. The creating of the pencils was rather simple. However, the creation process was great for stimulating ideas.

To begin, lay out piece of paper and fold it one inch from the bottom.

Then, put a line of glue along that line (unfold first).

And, place the led on top of the line of glue.

Roll the paper over the led and crease a hard line around the led.

Finally, repeat gluing and rolling the paper until you reach the end and place a final line of glue.

Allow to dry - about an hour - and then, you can sharpen the pencils in the accompanying sharpener. This is where I was unable to follow. I found the sharpener did not sharpen the pencils the way the pamphlet showed. So, I'm going to go back to this and try again, as all makers do.

I also decided to dip my pencil ends in colors to correspond with the led, per the pamphlet's suggestion.

Next up  - the clay sculpting process. Though I create all the time, it had been a while since I used paper clay. I discovered I used too much water. I also morphed my creatures into fantasy characters since they did not appear the same as their lovely drawings. This, too, is part of the maker process - remember the process and not just the product.

I failed to document the creation process since my hands were fully covered in clay. However, remember to keep a tower and cup of water nearby. The pamphlet covers this as well.

After you finish creating your two figurines (or, you could do one large one - I wish I had) and punching in holes to use as a pencil holder, you have to let your clay dry overnight. Mine was so wet, I let it dry two days.

Then, you can paint. The paint dried in under 30 minutes. Finally, coat your figurines in the supplied gloss for a clean finish.

With all things maker, it's important to document your creative process. It's never just about the product. The product is a fun gift at the end, but it is not the most important thing. Challenge your students to document their work!

Since I have not tried my Tinker Crate yet, I don't have a preference. I do believe they target different skills. This targets the creative process. While, Tinker Crate is more problem-solving. If you can, I'd suggest doing both!  You can also go onto the Kiwi Crate Website for suggestions on ideas to try and ways to do these on your own.

Enjoy!

Pursuing Positivity

Don't sext. Don't put revealing photos of yourself online. Don't friend those you don't know. Don't post anything you wouldn't want your grandma to see.

The list goes on. We're full of the "don'ts," but we should be promoting the "dos." We should pursue positivity. We should challenge students to do positive work online. 

The truth is we all do the "don'ts" online. I still keep my phone on and next to me while I sleep - a major "don't." At times, I feel anxious if I haven't checked my phone for notifications. And, I know not to do this. 

It isn't that we want to do the "don'ts." We know it's not right, yet, we still do it because it's easy and we aren't faced with alternatives. We are not educated on the positive uses of the online world. These are the alternatives.

So, let's educate. Let's pursue positivity. Let's create. And, let's share.

Step 1: Start with a simple brainstorm. 

Recently, I met with seventh and eighth grade students to brainstorm a positive online presence. We used Google Docs so students could type simultaneously and all ideas could be present whether or not they are verbalized. 

I challenge you to challenge your students or children to discuss orally and in writing.

Ask them:

1. What makes a positive online presence (POP)?

2. What are examples of positive online presences at [your school]? 

3. What are examples of positive online presences outside of [your school]? (Start a list for students so they can visualize what POPs look like. This is the list I started for students.)

• Born this Way Foundation
• Fenne Snapshot Diaries (My gratitude blog) 
• Student Activists with walls & videos
• ReThink App invented by student

4. What types of positive online presences would you like to see at [your school]? 

5. What platforms work best for positive online presences at [your school]? (Provide students with a few examples to help them get started. Then, ask them to think deeper.)

• Examples: app creation, Instagram/Facebook/Twitter/SnapChat, blog, Website…

6. What are the obstacles/negative sides of those positive online presences? (Challenge students to consider all populations and their obstacles. For instance, will males feel as open to be express positive images on Instagram as females?)

• Consider all students - what will we use and what helps us?

7. What will we create today? (Challenge students to work together to create one for the school and then, if they'd also like to create one on their own, they can.)

• You can create individually as well, but today we will create one for the school

8. How will we continue this and ensure it stays positive? (This is the most important question - how will you ensure longevity and monitor negative infringement?)

9. Other thoughts? 

Allow for all opinions. Redirect those who fall off-task. Check out our first brainstorming session. 

Step 2: Small group discussion

Quickly break into groups of 2-3 students. Challenge them to brainstorm positive online presences they would like to create. Ask them to think of:

• a name for the online presence (some said "Meet the Spar-dashians" since we are the Spartans)
• who is the audience
• what is the purpose
• what is the content
• how can we be sure it stays positive
• how can we ensure all are represented 

Due to time limitations, students received only 20 minutes for this process. However, this can be stretched longer. We resorted to traditional pencil and paper to reiterate positive behavior in all media. 

Some examples:

Step 3: Draw it out

Due to time restraints, I was not able to include this important step in all classes. After students map out the outline of their "POPs," ask them to draw a sample of the product. If it is an app, what will the home screen look like? If it's a Website, what will it look like. 

This does not need to be a full storyboard. Rather, the intent is to get students to refine their ideas.

Next, we will begin the creation, sharing, and maintenance of the "POPs." We must decide how to fit in the creation. When will we find time in the schedule? Who will be part of this - will we include all students are just some? 

Step 5: Creation is equally as important as brainstorming. 

Step 6: Sharing.  Sharing instills intrinsic motivation. We like to see our work get attention. Share the "POPs" in a way students receive some attention and others see positive work showcased. We need to bring attention to positive behavior. 

Step 7: Maintenance. Maintain the positive presence. Will this product stay with students, the school? 

Stay tuned for follow-up on the final three steps when we meet again.