Rag quilts - how I completed my first one, four years later

Four years ago, I decided I'd make my then, soon-to-be born niece, a rag quilt from all of the scraps of my childhood. I did not have a sewing machine at a time so, I cut up all of the squares for the front, the insert cushion, and the fleece backing. I pinned each together, laid them out in a pattern I liked, and then, bagged them in plastic bags by row.

I read a tutorial at the time that said to sew an 'X' through each set of squares - the rag, the padding, and the backing. I made it through half a row and then, did not touch it for another four years. I managed to move the bags through three moves and a new sewing machine.

But, this year, I decided to finish the projects I had started. The first project - my rag quilt.

In opening the bags, I realized several things:

1. I made the squares too small
2. I cut the padding to large
3. I should not have used felt for a backing if I wanted it to "rag up"

Despite these realizations, I decided to go ahead with the project, knowing what to do differently in the future.

I cut my squares 3 inches by 3 inches. In most tutorials I've read, they cut them at least 6 inches by 6 inches. This leaves you ample room for mistakes and it allows you less square sewing. I also cut my padding the the same width and length as the rags and the backing. Don't do this. Cut your padding squares so they are about an inch shorter on both the width and the length. If you don't, they will be part of the fray and it's not as clean that way. I also used a real soft black felt for the back. While this feels nice, it misses the rag quilt feel. So, if you're wanting the traditional look, use flannel or a cotton fabric.

Since I found a variety of tutorials written by master "sewers," I thought I'd write one from the perspective of a first-time sewer and a first-time rag quilt maker.

So, how do you start?

1. Pick out some large pieces of fabric - old shirts, family scraps, etc. - that you can cut into squares.
2. Buy quilt backing.
3. Pick out some large pieces of fabric that you can use as backing. Remember - if you use fleece, it will not fray, so pick a fabric that will fray. It can all be one solid color (I chose black) or they can be multiple colors. 

Once you have picked out your fabric, it's time to do some cutting. Decide upon the size of your quilt. I scoped Pinterest for sizing charts. I also discovered that it's best to keep each square about 6 inches by 6 inches. 

I am not a perfectionist when it comes to sewing so I pinned the three layers together - rag on top, followed by batting, and then the backing. I realized later that I had to cut the fabric more even so I cut it without a ruler. Not best practice, but with the backing, all stuck together so it cut evenly. Be sure you have a quality pair of sewing scissors on hand.

Next, it's time to sew an X through the four corners of the three-layer square. I've read various accounts on how to do this, but decided to sew it all the way through the end. Since mine layers were very thick, I had some problems with the sewing machine. This is another reason to really consider your layers. Fleece proved to be a little too thick. However, I made it work. Also, check the quality of thread. I bought thread that said it was for machine embroidery, but it got tangled repeatedly in the bobbin. In fact, it got so tangled, it doubled or tripled the time it would take to work on this quilt. Thread is very important.

Repeat sewing the Xs for all squares. After I sewed a row of squares, I laid them on a bed in the order I wanted them to appear. You can choose to have a definite pattern or scatter them. I scattered them. Continue laying them row-by-row on a flat surface in an undisturbed area until you have all of the rows. Then, grab one row at a time (I stacked each square on top of the other in the same order so I could sew them together more easily).

It's time to sew together the rows. Grab your furthest square to the left and the square to its right. Keep the left square face up and place the right square on its back, underneath of the left square. Then, sew along the right edge - top to bottom. I used about a 1/2 inch allowance, but that is up to you. Whatever you choose, be sure to use the same allowance throughout your quilt.

When you have sewed the first two squares together, you will continue to sew the remaining squares together in that row. After you have finished sewing the row together, place the completed row back with the others. Then, grab the next row and repeat until you have reached the end of your rows. Your squares will begin to look like this.

Once you have sewn together all of the squares, it's time to sew the rows together. Grab the first two rows and pin them together. It's very important to line square for square. I discovered that some of my squares were not the same size (due to my lack of precision) so, I still pinned them as if they were and scrunched the larger ones to fit the smaller ones. Just as you placed the top square over the flipped second square, you'll do the same with the rows. Place the top row right-side up and the second row upside down (back to back) and sew along the bottom/right edge. Before you start sewing, open up the the flaps so they are pinned down as you sew. You want to sew over the flattened flaps.

Your masterpiece will start to look more finished at this point and, luckily, you are almost done!

Now, for the final steps! It's time to sew around the border of the quilt. Use the same allowance as you did for the other sections. I did 1/2 inches for each other piece so I left 1/2 inch allowance around the rest of the quilt.

Once you are done sewing your border, it's time to cut! Use a good pair of sewing scissors and cut every flap you can find. My hand was sore after this, but it was worth it. The smaller the distance between your cuts, the more the fray at the end. Sadly, since I used fleece, mine did not really fray. Though, it still has a nice effect.

Then, it's time to wash and dry your quilt. This will give it that rag look with frayed edges. I washed the quilt on a gentle cycle with no fabric softener and only a little bit of detergent. I also washed it with three towels. this will ensure the towels absorb the frays and threads that are made. After the wash cycle, I put it in the dryer with the same towels to further absorb the threads.

And, now for your finished product.

I'm excited to make many more now that I know to not use fleece and to cut larger squares and...use better thread!

You can check out some of my other products at fenneworks.com. Enjoy!

Crafting crates: Part 1 - the Doodle Crate

A year ago, my boyfriend showed me this thing called a "loot crate." It was love at first sight. The thought of receiving monthly kits to keep you energized is brilliant. The only thing that can be a catch for some (especially teacher budgets like mine) is the price tag. And, while it is not steep, it does have a cost. So, for that reason, I withheld making any purchases.

However, recently, my boyfriend shared a YouTube series with me called "Smarter Everyday." As an educator, I enjoy the quick segments, humor, and intellectual growth. At the end of the episode, the show's creator featured Kiwi Crate. Immediately, my attention was perked. Another crate? Say what? And, better yet, if you clicked on his link, you would receive a trial month for free (while plus $4.95 shipping & handling). As an aside, when I signed up for a trial, it did get my credit card info, so I will have to remember to cancel if I can't afford or if I don't like. Though I understand the business of it, it is a drawback for some. After the first month, it is $19.95 a month for each crate. Though, if you go to Kiwi Crate, you can get it for $16.95 a month if you pay upfront. In the end, the price is roughly the same.

There are four crates to choose from - koala, kiwi, doodle, and tinker. Koala and kiwi are for younger children, but the doodle and tinker crates are for "children" ages 9 and up. So, I signed us up for one of each - a tinker and a doodle.

(Example crates you can get with a Doodle Crate subscription)

Now, I'm perfectly capable of searching Pinterest and starting these ideas on my own (and as any of my close friends can tell you, I do). However, the simplicity and consistency of the crates have huge appeal. Imagine making your own in your classroom - having a surprise monthly crate to challenge your creativity.

So, I signed up for both the doodle and tinker crates. When you love making as much as I do, it's hard to choose. Then, I began the waiting process. When you first subscribe, the crate ships within approximately 3 business days of your purchase. Afterwards, your crate will arrive mid-month for every following month. Since you are required to create an account, you can login to your account at anytime to view the status of your order. I also discovered it's a way of finding the specific type of crate you'll be receiving. For instance, it shows that I'll be getting the drawbot for my Tinker Crate. And, it was correct!

_________________

Approximately one week after I signed up for my creates, they arrived on my front porch!

When I first had the revelation to blog about my crates, I didn't account for the time to create. Foolish me! So, this is part one of two on the kits. The focus: the Doodle Crate.

Since the Doodle Crate arrived two days before my Tinker Crate, it was a natural choice to start work on the Doodle Crate.

I opened my box and discovered a pamphlet on what I would be making and how I could make it. I also found carefully packaged items to use in my creation process. And, I discovered the box itself works as an awesome canvas for creating.

This month's focus is on crafting your own pencils and pencil holders. It came fully stocked with paint, two types of paint brushes, two packages of paper clay, gloss finish, glue, paper for pencils, and colored led. Oh, and a tutorial book!

Another look at all of the goodies!

Next up - creating. I decided to make the pencils first since I knew I'd get messy with the clay. The creating of the pencils was rather simple. However, the creation process was great for stimulating ideas.

To begin, lay out piece of paper and fold it one inch from the bottom.

Then, put a line of glue along that line (unfold first).

And, place the led on top of the line of glue.

Roll the paper over the led and crease a hard line around the led.

Finally, repeat gluing and rolling the paper until you reach the end and place a final line of glue.

Allow to dry - about an hour - and then, you can sharpen the pencils in the accompanying sharpener. This is where I was unable to follow. I found the sharpener did not sharpen the pencils the way the pamphlet showed. So, I'm going to go back to this and try again, as all makers do.

I also decided to dip my pencil ends in colors to correspond with the led, per the pamphlet's suggestion.

Next up  - the clay sculpting process. Though I create all the time, it had been a while since I used paper clay. I discovered I used too much water. I also morphed my creatures into fantasy characters since they did not appear the same as their lovely drawings. This, too, is part of the maker process - remember the process and not just the product.

I failed to document the creation process since my hands were fully covered in clay. However, remember to keep a tower and cup of water nearby. The pamphlet covers this as well.

After you finish creating your two figurines (or, you could do one large one - I wish I had) and punching in holes to use as a pencil holder, you have to let your clay dry overnight. Mine was so wet, I let it dry two days.

Then, you can paint. The paint dried in under 30 minutes. Finally, coat your figurines in the supplied gloss for a clean finish.

With all things maker, it's important to document your creative process. It's never just about the product. The product is a fun gift at the end, but it is not the most important thing. Challenge your students to document their work!

Since I have not tried my Tinker Crate yet, I don't have a preference. I do believe they target different skills. This targets the creative process. While, Tinker Crate is more problem-solving. If you can, I'd suggest doing both!  You can also go onto the Kiwi Crate Website for suggestions on ideas to try and ways to do these on your own.

Enjoy!

The Latch Hook

I'm a crafter and generally love to try all things crafts. So, for Christmas, my boyfriend bought me a lighthouse latch work kit. Neither he nor I had ever tried latch hooking. My parents had two hanging from our walls growing up so I was at least familiar with the product. He, however, had no clue.

So, the kit he bought me was advanced. In the world of latch hook, that does not mean much other than the grid is not labeled. Rather than using a color-coded grid, I had to look at a paper, and count squares, which added time. Though, since the colors are hard to distinguish, it's hard to say if having the actual grid marked or the paper marked is easier.

When I opened the kit, I found roll after roll of unorganized yarn pieces. Nothing was grouped by color. So, I researched it and discovered this is typical. I have no idea why, if they are already grouping colors, they do not group the colors together, but they don't. So, I spent a while separating the pieces of yarn into color groups. Then, I packaged them into Ziploc bags for easy storage away from the cats.

The cats...

While latch hooks are relatively easy, I had to research how to do it. So, in hoping I'm not alone, I thought I'd document my experience. That said, this is more of a summary of the process. For the best tutorials, there are YouTube channels devoted entirely to the latch hook. 

You can find a latch hook kit at most craft stores or online (Amazon has a ton). Since I love lighthouses, the boy got me a giant light house wall hanging latch hook. I discovered, after watching many tutorials, you can use this as pillows, rugs, and more!

The kit

So, how do you do it? 

For starters, you'll need to lay out your latch grid and your diagram. On your diagram, you'll find a color key. Mine was a giant piece of paper with color coded squares. 

You should also have packs of mixed yarn pieces. This are not organized so you'll need to organize them. I used plastic bags. And, since mine was rather large, this process took at least 30 minutes. 

The color key is also not the most easy to read. So, I put a matching dot on my plastic bag to correspond to the color (I forgot to take a picture of this). Here is the color key - many of the yarn colors are not as distinctly different as those on the color key. Be sure to check them in a well-lit room. 

With your colors organized and bags color-coded, you are ready to start latch hooking. I had to read online how to make the initial hook. The good news - after about two minutes, I was ready and never needed assistance again. 

My work space

The latch hook:

First, take a piece of yarn (the color that corresponds with your diagram or, if your latch is colored, your actual latch square). Fold it in half. Then, stick the latch hook took through it so it rests toward the handle. 

Then, while holding the tips of the yarn, push the latch hook tool under the string you wish to "hook." Be sure to push it far enough so that the hook and clasp are no longer under the hook. 

Next, hold both ends of the yarn and push them over the top of the clasp. Never let go of the yarn. 

Once both tips of the yarn are under the clasp, grab the handle of the hook and pull the hook towards you. 

You will have to tug a little. Pull it all the way through the hole. The easiest way to look at it - pull until the yarn is no longer on the hook. You'll see a nice little knot on the row now. 

Repeat this for all remaining colors. 

More observations:

After losing my place the first few rows, I decided to use a marker to mark my spot after each row. I also made sure to complete rows versus sections or columns. I had to count the squares on my diagram and then count them on my actual latch. 

And, after several weeks of work on this masterpiece, I finally finished. Of course, there was a lot of remaining grid...

So, I measured one square past the hooked rows and cut. I cut around the entire "rug."

And, finally, I could see my finished work. But, alas, I was not quite done. 

I had to hang it. I was tired so, I just stuck a thumb tack through the two open corners on the left and right corners. Perhaps I devise a solution later. Maybe I'll frame it. Though, if you want to frame it, I suggest cutting less of the grid. 

The aftermath: 

Every color had remains. As I finished each color, I dumped them into my original box. I'm debating if I want to save the yarn for another project or donate it...

And, the kit: In case you want to complete this latch hook, here is the kit I used. You will need to purchase a latch hook like this (under $5 at any hobby or crafts store in the knitting section).

The tools

The kit

I plan to make some more latch hooks in the future, but I deserve a break after this one. It's time to finish some of my other projects that have sat stagnant! 

Jazzing up your makerspace with light sabers!

This year is our first year of having makerspaces on campus, so it's a year of recruitment and a year to get others interested. With that in mind, I spent the first few months of the year securing spaces and resources. By December, I was ready to bring in students so I started with a maker party - code your own ugly sweater or upcycle an old book into a purse, tool box, or other accessory.

Though only a few students attended our December maker party, they started to make use of the space in their own ways. They asked if they could return to finish. They asked if they could create more. They asked when there would be more. They wanted to keep using the space. In my idealistic vision, I imagined the space as a revolving door - a place for students and faculty to come in and innovate - with hours similar to that of a library.

As more students and faculty use the space, I'll have to solidify a few basic rules and offer some training courses on the tools. But, for now - for this first year - it's about engagement and recruitment.

So, I decided to finish off 2016 with monthly maker parties open to all students and staff during open lunches (a time when students are not required to eat in the dining hall and teachers do not have duties). For January, I hosted a Makey Makey challenge and a light saber creation event. I split up middle school and high school students for more personalized events and better crowd control.

Today, the middle school students entered - 15 of them (we only have 200 middle school students) ready and armed to make. I assumed all were in for the light saber creation, but was pleasantly surprised when several girls asked to explore the Makey Makeys. Some even asked if they could complete some of the projects from last month.

This is the completed version

We began with an introduction of the space and how to use it most effectively. This was an important step in this makerspace since the space is rather small and has not been fully defined for maker.

After a brief introduction to the space, we were ready to create. I found this great Instructables tutorial previously (which I still recommend consulting), which I used to guide the maker event. Before sharing this with students, though, I made one myself. ALWAYS make one yourself first.

First, gather the supplies. I sectioned mine off into various corners of the makerspace for better traffic flow.

Supplies:

• Clear tube guards for fluorescent bulbs (here are the ones he used). Get the T8 size. These make the blade portion of the lightsabers.
• Small 9-LED flashlight from Walmart. The kind needed are typically found on aisle-end displays and cost $1. Here's a link.
• A cardboard tube that fits both the flashlight and the plastic tube guard.We used wrapping paper tubes
• Duct tape (Any color)
• Electrical tape
• Peel-and-stick craft foam
• Cutting mat
• Hobby knife or scissors - we used scissors

Organization:

• Place items around the makerspace by step. For instance, the tube cards and the wrapping paper rolls were on the same table. 
• Determine what is best for your office.

Tube guards and wrapping paper rolls went on same table

Example in center. Idea (plastic) mats in center with each step at a different corner of table in counter clockwise order

Next, it's time to get to work! To make best use of the tubes, we cut ours in half. However, in the original example, he only cut off about 12 inches. It's up to you.

We used scissors to cut the rolls and the students (12-14 year olds) did great

Then, cut the wrapping paper rolls. We measured from the base of our hand/top of wrist to the tip of our middle finger and cut. This will be the shaft. 

Now, it's time to insert the flashlight into the wrapping paper shaft. Most wrapping paper rolls are too wide for the flashlight so we placed duct tape around the flashlight (leaving the battery end & seal open) until the flashlight could be inserted, but would not fall out if we held up the wrapping paper roll.

Duct tape of any color to top of flashlight

After, students inserted the clear tube into the wrapping paper shaft (with flashlight). Again, the wrapping paper rolls are typically to wide so we added duct tape to the base of the clear tube until it would insert into the wrapping paper shaft without sliding out easily.

Then, we removed the black plastic covering at the end of the tube. In it's place, we placed a piece of duct tape (sticky side up) on top of the hole (leave a little on the sides so that it hangs out - you'll clean this up later). Then, we put the plastic covering back on, securing the duct tape. To make sure the light does not escape, you may need to wrap electrical tape around the top and sides of the plastic covering. I had to do this for mine and so did the students.

Now begins the aesthetic stage. I put duct tape over my wrapping paper shaft for cosmetic effect. It was not necessary. I also put electrical tape at the end and top of the shaft to secure it and make it look more polished. In this step, you can cut out the peel and stick foam to add grips to your shaft. Be creative and have fun.

In the final step, we colored the tubes with permanent marker. And, then, we used a low grade sand paper to sand down and diffuse the color. This helped diffuse the light.

Now, your students are ready to wage light saber war. And...hopefully, this will help jump start your makerspace. The key is finding topics that catch your students' attention. Here is a list of our maker parties for reference.

Happy making!